Paris Sketchbook, Post 6, Repetto Ballet Shop

Rue de la Paix

As we  continued our stroll past amazing shops with names I've known almost all of my life, I saw a shop with large tall, beautiful windows with gorgeous chandeliers lighting a coloful main floor with dance shoes of every color!  While feeling intimidated by the designer shops, this shop was for dancers...this I could do with confidence!  The Repetto Ballet Shop was created by the mother of Roland Petit, French Choreographer, in 1947.  We walked through the main floor, then followed the grand staircase to the second floor which was filled with dance clothes, a wall of soft ballet shoes, and a dance costume shop with hand made tutus!  What a glorious place to see for this "dance mom" and a dance lover myself! 

Paris Sketchbook, Post 5, Rues Castiglione and Rue de la Paix

Ironwork, knockers, and colorful doors are all over Paris, but those along the Rue Castiglione and Rue de la Paix were extra special!  This is the area near the Ritz Hotel! One of my favorite movies is French Kiss with Kevin Kline and Meg Ryan,  and here we were!  The ironwork in the circle was in a window above a door on the Rue Castiglione, and the knocker on the blue door was brass locatd on the Rue de la Paix.  I am working straight to ink, no sketching first with pencil, then watercolor.

Paris Sketchbook, Post 4, Tuilleries Garden

Tuilleres Garden

I woke up at 4 AM after the fisrt day in Paris.  Jet lag, excitement, whatever, I don't know, so I got out my sketchbook and paints, and sat on the edge of the bath tub(so I wouldn't wake my husband) and started sketching in ink, then painted.  Let's say it shows excuberance!

We had taken the metro to the Tuilleres Garden to start our first day in Paris after arriving that morning.  No rest, straight to getting to know the City of Lights!  The Jardin des Tuileries was built  in 1564, by Queen Catherine des Medici, at the Tuillerie Palace, five years after the death of her husband, Henry II.  In 1667, it was first opened for public viewing.  In the last two centureies it has been open to the public for relaxation, walking, and entertainment.  My favoroites were the  sculptures, trees and the ornate lamps seen all over Paris.  So beautiful!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 3, Ready to fly from Seattle to Paris!

Seattle to Pairs

So excited to get on the plane to fly to Paris and create my first travel sketchbook! The sketch on the left I did while waiting to board after getting to SeaTac airport very early!  On board the flight, I practiced French and listedned to podcasts from Rick Steves Travel website on the history of Paris, and guided tours through the Louvre and Versailles, and did this sketch.    Most of the sketches I will be sharing with you I did after I got home from photos, because of the pace of our touring didn't allow for sitting and sketching very often.  Here and there, I found time to do sketching while traveling, and I'll make note of those.  I hope you enjoy traveling with me as I revisit Paris in my blog posts!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 2

Preparing for the trip, I purchased books that had pictures that had great composition to start sketching new things I would see that I hadn't sketched before like the Eiffel Tower and cafe tables and chairs.  I also started practicing my French from my high school and college days that I hadn't used for years.  I

Paris Sketchbook, Post 1

Paris...The City of Lights!  Preparing for Paris and beyond was a delight in itself.  Before every trip, I do lots of research, schedule out our days, and read map after map.  Bus lines, metro, trains, museum maps are all part of the preparation that's part of the fun...even practice sketches of places or things that I haven't drawn or painted before.  These are the first pages of a hardbound sketchbook in which I recorded our visit to Paris, Luxemberg, and a Viking River Cruise down the Moselle and Rhine Rivers.  After Paris we visited both sides of those rivers in France and Germany, ending in Basel, Switzerland.  I hope you are ready for a wonderful trip as I reminisce.  I blogging about this trip on Mondays and Thursdays each week.  Enjoy!

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 32, Carse House and Loch Stormaway, South Knapdale, Scotland

As we continued along the road past Loch Stornoway once more, I had to stop and photograph a very large stone stable along the roadside that we had passed earlier in the day.  Being an equestrian, I was fascinated, and learned later from Duncan, after returning home to the U.S., that there possibly could be a connection here, too.  The stable was part of the Carse House Estate where my ancestors may have also been  tenants. 

The CCEF Scotland Tour 2017 was incredible!  Scotland was all that I had dreamed of finding and so much more!  The 2020 tour is already in the planning, so when it’s time, be sure to go!  You don’t want to miss it!  Many, many thanks to His Grace, the Duke of Argyll for hosting us in such a way that we felt welcomed home!  Thanks to the marvelous tour organizers, Carl Guilford, CCNA President, and Cari Campbell!  Thank you to the Friends of the Argyll Papers, to Diarmid and Alison!  Thank you, with a very grateful heart, to Duncan Beaton for your diligent research, enthusiasm for the history of Scotland and the Campbell Family!  Thank you, John Campbell of Kilberry, for your warm help and assistance to a fellow Campbell looking for her roots in Kilberry!

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 31, Coulaghailtro at Port Ban and Kilberry Church, Scotland

We had lunch in Coulaghailtro, on Port Ban, at a cafe down this little lane traversing the pastureland to the bay.  Across the Sound of Jurra the islands of Jurra and Arran can be seen in the distance.   Potato farming and herring fishing were the primary uses of the land and sea.  Today, in addition to these, land owners raise sheep and cattle.  I learned from the archivist, after we returned home, that my family had also lived and worked in the township of Coulaghailtro just up the hill behind where I painted this scene!  Goosebumps!   

We turned around to head back towards Tarbert to look for Kilberry Church (built in 1821) which we located about 10 minutes south of the village on a hillside above the road above another burn.  This is the parish where my ancestors were married and children were baptised!  I climbed up the steps hoping to find the church unlocked.  Alas, the thick, heavy, large key holed door was not open, but leaning next to it was a blackberry wood walking  stick just like the one I inherited from my Uncle Marvin!  I might not have been able to see inside the place of worship where my ancestors were married and baptized, but I did feel a deep reverence and connection to this church!

Scotland Sketchbooks, Post 30, Cresthengan Bay and Crear, Scotland

Cresthengan Bay, and Crear, Scotland

We continued our trek, stopping to have lunch and take pictures at the summer resort café at Port Ban below Coulaghailtro.  What a magnificent place to live with pastures for cattle and sheep, salt water beaches, mountain views on the islands across the Sound of Jura, and delightful burns.  All my favorite places to be in God’s creation!

Continuing north we came across the cascading burn that John Campbell of Kilberry had described as the boundary between his estate and the one in Crear.  We could see across open pasture lands bordered by stone fences and the stone walls that were all that remained of former tenants’ homes.  I could imagine my ancestors here, their love for the land they worked, their family, and country.   A bit of Queen Anne’s lace was picked as a souvenir to cherish of this incredible landscape. 

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 29, Kilberry Castle and Stones, Kilberry, Scotland

Turning left onto a gravel drive we first came upon The Kilberry Stones which are on display under an open-air shelter.  Kilberry has been a sight of Christian worship since the early 14th Century, as evidenced by the stones, which were once housed in the Campbell Mausoleum next to the remains of the church’s foundation at Kilberry Castle.  They are now maintained by Historic Scotland.

 We drove on down the drive to the castle, gathered up my watercolor sketch book of our Scotland trip, and had the joy of meeting John Campbell, Laird of Kilberry Castle!  I told him of my quest to see the lands where my Campbell family were born, married, and had worked before immigrating to Canada.  I explained the research help that Duncan and the Friends of the Argyll Papers were providing, and that I had met the Duke of Argyll at the Inveraray Games the day before.  Yes, I know, some shameless name dropping, but this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, right?

John Campbell was very gracious in telling me how to find the border (a burn or small stream) between the current Campbell of Kilberry owned lands and the Ormsary lands at Crear which are now owned by the Lithgow Estate.  He also told us how to find the Kilberry Church ( which we unknowingly had passed as we headed to Kilberry, as it Iooks very much like a two story home).  I showed him the watercolor painting that I did of an early 20th Century photo of Kilberry Castle that I had found on line, and asked him about the couple standing in front of the castle.  To his astonishment, John said it was his great aunt and uncle, the mother and father of Miss Marion Campbell (who I had read about in my research).  He showed me the original photo from a family album…more serendipitous blessings!  Thank you, John Campbell, for being so warm and helpful to us on such an important day in our journey!  I am so grateful!

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 28, Village of Kilberry, Scotland

Village of Kilberry, Scotland

We headed out early after breakfast, with the map in hand that Duncan gave us, along a one lane windy coastal road.  It followed Loch Tarbert, then Loch Stornoway, and finally, around the coastline of the Sound of Jura with gorgeous views of the islands of Jura and Islay in the distance.  After many beautiful vistas on a stunning summer’s day, we came upon the village of Kilberry.  I can’t tell you how excited I was!  We first saw the Kilberry Inn, and a beautiful home across the lane where a couple of ladies were visiting along the lane.  We stopped to ask for further directions to Kilberry Castle.  We had the pleasure of meeting Mrs. Kennedy and her world renowned son, Richard Kennedy, Wood Artist, and viewed his art in Bole the Gallery.  We also enjoyed a visit to their impeccably delightful garden!  With their directions, we headed just a little further down the road to Kilberry Castle.

Scotland Sketchbook, Blog Post 27, Heading to Kilberry, Scotland

This post is mostly self-explanatory in the sketchbook itself.  I would add a thanks, once again, to Duncan Beaton, Archivist for the Argyll Papers at Inveraray Castle, for researching the names of my 4th Great-Grandfather and Grandmother Campbell.  This gave us the information we needed to know where to drive to see the countryside where they lived, having been tenant farmers on the lands of John Campbell of Kilberry.  We felt very adventuress traveling on our own driving onto small ferries, over mountain passes on a one lane road, followed by another ferry ride into Tarbert on the small ferry in my painting.  Here the water looks serene, but it was quite choppy and windy as we crossed over Loch Fyne!

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 26, The Duke of Argyll, Chief of Clan Campbell, Inveraray, Scotland

During the Inveraray Highland Games, I had the great honor to have another moment with His Grace, the 13th Duke of Argyll, when I was able to share with him my Scotland Sketchbook, and my family connection to Clan Campbell.  The Duke graciously agreed to autograph my pages with the painting of Inveraray Castle! What a family treasure this book will be!

How does one summarize in a few words over 800 years of the Campbell Clan and their Chiefs?  It is challenging, but here is my best attempt!  Surprisingly, the first Campbells were thought to be from England, in the kingdom of Strathclyde, sent to Scotland to protect the king's lands.  The Campbell Chiefs take their Gaelic name, Mac Cailein Mor, from Colin  Mor Campbell, who died in 1296 in a dispute with the MadDougalls of Lorne.  His son, Sir Neil Campbell was friend and brother-n-law of King Robert the Bruce.  Sir Neil's son, Sir Colin Campbell was rewarded by Robert the Bruce with land in the Western Highlands, and soon became the most powerful family in this area of Scotland.  Down through the centuries, the Clan Campbell Chiefs, descending from knights, were given additional lands and titles of Earl of Argyll, to ColinCampbell in 1477, then to duke with Archibald Campbell, 10th Earl and 1st Duke of Argyll down to our present day Torquhil Campbell, 13th Duke of Argyll born 1968.  In American terms, he is the patriarch of my extended Campbell family!

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 25, Inveraray Highland Games, Inveraray, Scotland

Inveraray Highland Games, Inveraray Castle, Scotland

Tuesday, July 18, 2017, we awoke in Oban, dawned our best Highland attire and headed for Inveraray.  We gathered in Church Square at the head of Inveraray's main street.  Excited crowds were gathering for the arrival of His Grace, the Duke of Argyll, Chief of Clan Campbell, his family, and the Inveraray & District Pipe Band (2017 World Champion).   Our host, His Grace, provided us with shortbread and wee drams of Clan Campbell Scotch Whiskey.  We all had the honor of meeting the His Grace and his children.  What a moment that was...unforgettable!  We then fell in behind the pipe band, the Duke, and his three children, Lord Archie, Lord Rory, and Lady Charlotte.  We paraded through town to the park on the grounds of Inveraray Castle.

When we arrived at the park, we were special guest of His Grace, the Duke of Argyll, and were hosted in the Sponsors' Tent.  There we met Her Grace, the Duchess of Argyll!  The Inveraray Highland Games included several piping and highland dancing competitions, track and filed, heavy events, wrestling, cycling, and the World Champion Caber Championship.  There were great food tents (I had a delicious venison burger), and vendors' tents with beautiful highland crafts.  I joined the Friends of the Argyll Papers (which benefits the preservation of the Argyll Archives) at their tent. 

My Campbell Cousin, Marie, her husband, Don, and I took a second tour of Inveraray Castle.  The guides gave us private access to the main rooms as we soaked in the gorgeous ambiance, and incredible history of our Clan Campbell castle!  This day will always be remembered as a day of family, honor, and celebration for me!  Thank you, Your Graces, Duke and Duchess of Argyll for one of the most amazing days of my life!

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 24, Kilmartin, Carnasserie Castle, and Temple Wood, Scotland

Kilmartin, Carrnesserie Castle and Temple Wood, Scotland

On this very special day of out Scotland tour our group of 37 travelers divided up three ways to see a variety of sights in Western Argyll.  Our groups tour guide was Inveraray Castle Archivist, Duncan Beaton, and what a wonderful guide he was!  We visited Carrnesserie Castle set high on a hill that overlooks Kilmartin Glen.  This castle was built by John Campbell, Bishop of the Isles.  The Campbells of Auchinbrecks' Duncan Campbell were ruined after Argyll's Rising in 1685.  The walled garden gate was so lovely, and the joy of climbing to the top of the tower keep, with friend Marilyn, was so joyful!  We visited the Kilmartin Church and viewed the carved burial slabs of medieval knights, and had a  lovely lunch at the Kilmartin Hotel and Pub. 

Next, we went down to the Kilmartin Glen to visit the Temple Wood.  There are large standing stones from the Bronze age, 3,000 years old, scattered across the glen, two circles of standing stones, and burial cairns.  This glen was used as a place for rituals and funerary activities.  

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 23, Isle of Iona, Scotland

Isle of Iona

To get to this jewel of an island, we ferried across from Oban to the Isle of Mull, driving west on a one lane road over mountains and moors to a small ferry , crossing turquoise waters to the Isle of Iona, locatedin the Inner Hebrides.  The color of the water surrounding island was like that of the Caribbean Sea and crystal clear!  

Iona is known as the "Cradle of Christianity'" in Scotland.  This was the home of the first Gaelic monastic abbey founded by St. Columba.  He came from an abbey in Ireland where he and another bishop and their followers had fought over leadership in Ireland with many lives being lost.  Columba , being exiled, and in repentance landed in Scotland on the Mull of Kintyre in 563 with 12 disciples.  They made their way eventually to the Isle of Iona where he founded the Abbey of Iona.  It was a functioning abbey for over 300 years.  The abbey led the conversion of the Picts of Scotland and the Anglo-Saxons of Northumbria to Christianity.  In addition, the first great Celtic crosses were sculpted here, and the birthplace of the practices and traditions of  Celtic Christianity was towards the end of the 8th century , and Iona may have played a part in the beginnings of the Book of Kells.

Today, the island of Iona, which was purchased from the Duke of Argyll in 1979, then donated to the National Trust of Scotland, is an ecumenical community consisting of different Christian traditions which worship at the abbey and provide retreats.  What a beautiful place to retreat, find peace, and rest!

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 22, Glen Coe, Loch Ness, and Oban, Scotland

These pages meld a couple of days' adventures from exploring Urghart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness, to the awe-inspiring views of Glen Coe, and the legendary Dunstaffnage Castle near Oban.  I think we've all been fascinated at some point by the legend of Nessie of Loch Ness.  On a day, such as this, with the inky blue waters of Loch Ness brooding darkly below Urghart Castle, it's not hard to imagine what spotting an unusual look to a wave  might stir in one's imagination.  My mind, being an equestrian, much prefers the Scottish Highland legend of the water horses known as Kelpies.  As legend has it, Kelpies are malevolent spirits in the shapes of a horses that live in the lochs and rivers of the Highlands. 

Herem befire Urghart Castke was byukt, St. Columba is said to have made his first conversion in Scotland of a Pictish noban named Emchath.  The nobleman was on his deathbed sometime between 562-586.   The nobleman, his son, and his  household were converted to Christianity.

As we headed to Glen Coe, the westher turned very wet and windy, which put all the streams and waterfalls on the River Coe to gushing down the mountainsides into one great waterfall near the vista of the Three Sisters mountains, Bidean nam Bian!  This made this incredible volcanic valley even more epic!  What a thrill!

In Oban we visited Dunstaffnage Castle built by the McDougalls in the 13th Century, lords of Lorn.  As early as the 7th Century this site may have been a stronghold of Dal Riata (Gaelic overkingdom occupying parts of western Scotland and northeastern Ireland).  James III granted the castle to Colin Campbell, 1st Earl of Argyll in 1470.  During the Civil War in 1745, heroine, Flora MacDonald was held here for a period of time.  She helped Bonnie Prince Charlie to escape Scotland from the British Loyalists.

Scotland Sketchbook Post 21, Inverness and Culloden, Scotland

Inverness is set alongside the banks of the River Ness.  We loved the quiet and lovely walk along the river, meditative moments in Inverness Cathedral, and strolling across the Victorian age "Ladies Walk" swinging bridge .  We felt a part of the community for a few moments as we strolled with Inverness locals out walking their dogs along the river.

The next day we went to visit the Culloden Battlefield and Interpretive Center.  This is an incredibly solemn place out on the moor where the final battle of a civil war in the British Isles that divided families and friends, yes, and clansmen, on different sides of the battle, took place.  After learning about  the battle we walked out onto the moor to find, among the stones marking where each clan fell in the battle with the British Regiments and were buried that day, the Campbell Stone.  Many of us gathered around the stone to have our picture taken in this sacred spot.  Though we came from all over the U.S., we were family standing around that stone on Culloden Moor.

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 20, Cawdor Castle, Scotland

After driving through the Cairngorm mountains across the moors to the farmlands of Cawdor Castle where we had lunch in the tea room of the castle.  So yummy!  Lady Cawdor, herself, led our group on a tour of the castle.  The castle is her home which opens up a portion of it each summer for public viewing.  The main castle was built in 1380 by William Thane of Cawdor,   Legend says that a dream prompted him to allow a mule loaded with gold to roam freely and when it stopped to lie down and rest under a hawthorn tree is the place where the castle was built.  In 1638 the north wing was added , and in 1684,  Sir Hugh Campbell the 15th Thane transformed the interior to a warm and comfortable home.  Moe improvements were made in the mid 17th and 19th centuries.  The castle was the setting of Shakespeare's "Macbeth" .  The surrounding grounds and gardens with a delightful, "secret" walled knot garden.

Scotland Sketchbook, Post 19, Dunkeld on the River Tay, Scotland

Driving through Dunkeld, we crossed the arched bridge over the deep royal blue of River Tay, then followed a drive through a glen where we spotted red deer in the distance.  Walking through large old shade trees we came to Dunkeld Cathedral along the banks of the River Tay.  A Christian community was formed here in the 6th Century by St. Columba (Isle of Iona Abbey), and the cathedral was built C. 1,000 A.D.  Highlights for me were the stone Celtic crosses, the Alpha and Omega blue and gold carpet in fron of the chancelry, and the stone slabs in the ancient cemetery with worn carvings.  A certain tabby cat was sunning himself on one such stone, which instantly inspired the  "The Legend of The Tabby of Tay"!  You'll have to wait for it! We enjoyed quiet contemplative time along the river.  Later we enjoyed staying at the Hilton Dunkeld House and Country Club, a summer house built by the 6th Earl of Atholl, a favorite place where Beatrix Potter spent time writing!  How awesome is that?  I have always loved Beatrix Potter's stories and her watercolor illustrations!  Here at Dunkeld House I enjoyed the best salmon dinner, fresh from the River Tay, and the yummiest Sticky Taffy Pudding for dessert!