Moselle and Rhine Rivers Sketchbook, Post 9, Heidelberg

Here she is, Elizabeth Stuart, Queen of Barvaria , (1596-1662), becase queen when her husband, Frederick V was elected as  King of Bavaria in 1619 and he was defeated in battke at the beginning of the 30 Year War at the start of the Reformation in 1620.

Elizabeth Stuart was gifted the glorious gate at Heidelberg Castle as a birhtday present for his beloved wife.  She was the granddaughter of Mary, Queen of Scots, and daughter of James I of England (James VI of Scotland).  Elizabeth and Frederick V of Bavaria were married to each other at the young age of 16, February 14, 1613 in London, stayed in England 2 months, then headed to the Electoral Court of Heidelberg in 1613.

The couple had 13 children, and when Frederick died at age 38 of fever, Elizabeth was devastated.  She was exiled to the Hague, then returned to England in 1661, and died of pneumonia in 1662.  What a life story of a princess of both Scotland and England, then Queen of Bavaria!  

Moselle and Rhine Rivers Sketchbook, Post 8, Heidelberg, Germany

Our first stop was Heidelberg Castle high on the ridge above the town overlooking the Neckar River!  The views are stunning and the castle mostly in ruins, but with a lovely courtyard, a shop, and incredible weinstube under the castle where we were able to be refreshed!  The beautiful red sandstone gate known as "Elizabeth's Gate", was irresistabel to want to draw, and paint and once home I learned much more about Elizabeth (more about her in Thursday's post).

After having wurst and beer in a beautiful square in the town center, we looked at shops where I found the perfect little dirndl  dress to bring home for our granddaughter in jewel box of a tiny shop located near the Catherdral of the Holy Spirit.  We enjoyed an organist's playing and lit candles for healing in the cathedral.  Another special day, with my friend Luanne!

Moselle and Rhine Rivers Sketchbook, Post 7, Heidelberg, Germany

Returning to Heidelberg was wonderful, especially since my husband and I were able to be there at the same time on this trip.  One of our favorite places! I will share more about this lovely old university town in my next post!

Moselle and Rhine Rivers Sketchbook, Post 6, Rudesheim and Kaub, Germany

We stopped in Rudesheim for the eveing.  Walked into town along a lovely riveside park on the Rhine.  We found the main sqaure filled with neatly trimmed trees, flowers, and wine tasting stalls.  We had a glass of Reisling to sit and sip as we enjoyed the evening air.  We spent the next day cruising down the Rhine passing castle village one after another as we rounded each bend in the river.  We were treated to a demonstration of how to make a Rudesheim Coffee with brandy.  Delicious!!  We passed Kaub, with the iconic Pfalzgrafenstein Castle on anisland in the middle of the river.  Chains stretched across the river used to block the way of boats passing until a toll was paid to the keepers of the castle, then allowed to pass.  No tolls today!

Moselle and Rhine Rivers Sketchbook, Post 5, Marksburg Castle, Braubach, Germany

Markcburg Castle, Braaubach, Germany

This castle is the best preserved Rhine Medievil Castle laid out in 1219 and completed in 1231, it  It sits high atop the pinacle of a 1,000 mountain overlooking the Rhine River.  Fortified by it's placement on the rocky promintory, it's high walls, and mutiple gates leading to the castle keep maintained it's dominace despite the many attempts by invaders and land grabbers over the centuries.  Here you can see the stables of the king and his knight's horses, the kitchens that kept the castle running, and the bedcamber of Johannes Ludwig XIV.  Even the sweetness of a beautiful little herb garden tucked neatly along a high castle walkway graces the castle with it's simple beauty.  The castle shop offers charming gifts, and refreshments to enjoy on the outside terrace offering a panaramic view of the Rhine River below.

Moselle and Rhine Rivers Sketchbook Post 4, Cochem, Germany, Reichsburg Castle

Cochem and Reichsburg are on either side of the Moselle River connected by a bridge with Reischburg Castle sitting very high on a cliff overlooking the towns and a great protective view up and down both directions of the Moselle.  The castle goes back to the year 1,000, once occupied by German kings,  Louis XIV of France, back in the hands of Germany, and now run by the state of Cochem.  It was refurbished in the late 1800's by a private family.  Each room has been bautifully restored.

The women in the circles on horses were frescoed on the ceiling of a small jewel box sizedroom with a coffered ceiling that was divided into 4 sections.  Unfortunately, my 4th photo didn't hacve a clear enough image to paint from, so I have three of the 4 Cardinal Virtues of Justice, Prudence and Courage, but didn't get Temperance.  I had to do a bit of research to find out what the significance of these strong women on horseback represented!  So worth the time and effort!  I love these representations of these virtues!

Moselle and Rhine Rivers Sketchbook, Post 3, Bernkastle, Germany

The Moselle River runs through a deep gorge with high hillsides and mountains on either side of the gentle moving  Moselle River.  Bicycle paths run along the river dotted with locks to traverse, and lovely, quaint villages like Bernkastle that have timbered houses from the Middle Ages.   These homes have stood the test of time, although some are leaning or looking a bit crooked, but all of that adds to the charm of each little village.  Here in Bernkastle we tried several wursts, and had our first glass of a great German beer in a delightful restaurent in the Hotel Baren on the riverfront.

Moselle and Rhine River Sketchbook, Post 2, Trier

We toured Trier this morning, once an impotant Roman center of trade and commerce, almost 2,000 years ago.  The Porta Nigra was the city gate to Trier.  At the top of high hillside overlooking Trier were more Roman ruins, as well as the ruins of a Roman arena that we passed on our way up to the viewpoint.  Once back in the center of town, attended the Easter Sunday services at the oldest catherdral in Germany.  The choir and pipe organist were amazing, the hymns familiar but in German, and the swinging of the giant incense lamp a sight to behold!

A Celt community existed here, which predates Roman times.  Celts  continued to migrate east and northward eventually populating Ireland, Wales, and Scotland.  We made our way through the center of town with beautifully built stone and stucco buildings with businesses on the ground floors and apartments on the higher floors.  It was a lovely pedestrian only zone with a visitors' kiosk and carousel in the central square.  All of my work on this page was stright to pen and ink, then watercolor.

Moselle and Rhine River Cruise Sketchbook, Post 1

After leaving Paris, we bussed through Northeast France  to the tiny country of Luxembourg for lunch and  a quick look around the city ofLuxembourg.  We walked up to the main square to the Palais Town Center, had a delightbul lunch at the La Boucherie Restaurant where everything was decorated in red and white.   Later we went to the Battle of the Bulge Memorial Cemetary.  Remembering those who had lost their lives in the battle was a very moving experience, and we paid our respects at the grave of General George S. Patten.  We must never forget the high price for freedom that has been paid for us.

From Luxembourg we drove down from the mountaintop of Luxembourg to the Moselle River  and crossed into Germany to the ancient city of Trier.  We boarded our Viking Cruise Ship, got settled in our cabin, had a wonderful white tablecloth dinner getting to know our fellow shipmates, a briefing on the next day's activities, and a wonderful night's sleep in a gently rocking bed!  Heavenly!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 17, San Chapelle and Notre Dame de Paris

Good Friday at San Chapelle and Notre Dame

After standing in the pouring rain for an hour, we were able to get in to see the  beautiful San Chapelle.  A jewelbox of a cathedral rebuilt by King Louis XIV to protect the precious relics of the Crown of Thorns and a piece of the Cross. the relics were purchased by Louis the IX from Emporer Boudoin II in 1239.  Traveling with our dear friends, one of whom was fighting Stage 4 ovarian cancer and brain caner, we were able to witmess her courage in so many ways.  Today was an increidible day as she climbed the windng staircase to view the royal portion of this chapel, then when time to descend the staircase, she joyfully said, "Look out below, I'm coming down!"  We all made it safely down!

Next, we walked to Notre Dame just a couple of blocks away.  With long lines for Good Friday services, we were able to enter through the disabled entrance and the Knights of Columbus escorted she and I to a seat in the packed cathedral.  The service was given in French, English , and Spanich, and the Crown of Thorns relic symbolized in gold was on display on the altar.  A Good Friday we will never forget!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 16, Musee d'Orsay

Paris Sketchbook, Post 16, Musee d'Orsay

Musee d' Orsay was all about the Impressionists for me!  After lingering through the gound floor atrium of marble statues, we headed for the third floor Impressionists.  Moving, emotional, and ters of joy at seeing Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Vuillard, Sisely, Sargeant and more.  Claude Monet's "Essai de figure en plein air (vers la droite)", 1886, is of his step-daughter, Suzanne Horschede.  He painted many versions of her, this is only one of them.  A note on my own work in this sketchbook, almost all of my sketches are drawn in ink first, no pencil drawing, then watercolored.  This challenged me to trust my drawing ability and to live with the mistakes!

Later, we had a wonderful lunch in th Orsay's beautiful restauranet filled with incredible light, greek statues, glorious chandeliers , and colorful modern furnishings!  You must go!

Paris Sketchbook Post 15, The Louvre

The Louvre in the former palace of the kings of queens of France is sp beautiful and massive that we had to make some decisions about what was a priority for us to see.  We started with the antiquities, focusing on the Winged Lady, c. 190 B, marble of the Aegean Sea, Greece, and Venus, c. 100 BC, marble, Greece.  What a thrill to see these great statues! 

We also saw the paintings of the Italina Rennaisance, including the Mona Lisa, and the Romantic Period paintings of the 1800's.  This painting, a portrait of Mme. Mole Reymond, was painted by the portrait artist of Marie Antoinette, Mme. Le Brune Vigee, in 1842.  I loved the light, color, and the personality she captured in this portrait!  I was walking so quickly through this gallery with liimited time, but she stopped me in my track!!  The artists was exiled from France during th French Revolution, but continued to paint commissioned portraits throughout Europe for many years.  She later returned to her home of France after receiving a pardon for being a portrait artist to the former royal family.

Paris Sketchbook, Post 14, Montmartre

On a very rainy day in Paris, our friends Lu and Smitty joined us in touring the city.  We had watched the movie, "Midnight In Paris"  before coming to the City of Lights.  Lu and I share a great love of art and the Belle Epoque era, so we had to see Montmartre!  We walked past the artists's park up the Rue Norvins to see San Pietro and Sacre Cour to pray for healing for Lu.   Later our taxi driver drove past the Moulin Rouge, then back down to the Eiffel Tower.  We had lunch at La Tourville and Cafe des Officiers.

Paris Sketchbook, Post 13, Le Tour Eiffel

After a wonderful day's outing to Versailles, we took theVersailles Train back into the city of Paris disembarking near the Eiffel Tower on the Champ de Mars.  We walked along the banks of the River Seine, as we approached the tower feeling smaller and smaller the closer we got to the foot of the 1,000 foot tower of steel.  It was built 100 years after the beginning of the French Revolution by Gustav Eiffel a world renowned bridge builder.

We did not ascend the tower, but took in the sheer mass of the structure which is difficutl to represent in a painting.  Under the legs of the tower are many ornate kioks of postcards and souvenirs, and amazingly delicate antigue carousels that soften the strong contrasting lines of the tower.  Our hometown Seattle Space Needle shrinks in comparison to the monolith of Le Tour Eiffel!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 12, The Hamlet at Versailles

Marie Antoinette commissioned The Hamlet to be built in 1783 to look like it was set deep in the French countryside rather than on the estate of Versailles.  It was a retreat for her children and a gathering place for her friends.  There is a small countryhouse, a billards room, smaller cottages built on a lake and small creeks which are surrounded by flower and vegetable gardens and orchards.  There is also a small dairy and other farm animals.  This was my favorite part of Versailles and is worth the long walk or ride to the back of the estate grounds to enjoy.

In this illustration, I superimposed the Queen with two of her children sitting on the lawn by the lake, as I imagine she loved to do.  This part of the painting was inspired by the original hanging in Versailles.  The rest of The Hamlet, I painted from my photographs that I took when we were there.  I love the familial joy and the desire to provide something more normal for her children that this illustrates!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 11, La Petit Trianon

Un Chateau de Plaisance

The Petit Trianon was gifted to Marie Antoinette by her husband, King Louis XVI in 1774.  Marie Antoinette was promised in marriage to Louis when she was 10 and he was 12 years old.  The marriage was a political one to form an alliance between Austria and France.  This smaller palace allowed Marie Antoinette and her children a place to escape the pressure of life in Versailles during the day, but they returned to the main plaace at the end of the day.  The palace is grand , but on a much, much smaller scale with sitting rooms, a music room, a nursery, and bedroom for nappping.   On the ground level is the reception hall, the kitchen and servants quarters.  This felt more like a home and as we walked through it, this stunningly beautiful portrait of Marie Antoinette hung over a fireplace at the front of the home.  The portrait artist was Elizabeth Vegee Le Brun (1755-1842).

Delightful gravel paths lead through natural pastoral gardens winding among ponds, meadows, and follies to The Hamlett.  More about this charming get away next time!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 10, Versailles

Versailles

Grand, glorious, imposing...glowing like gold in the early morning sunshine.  Built by King Louis XIV, who transferred his court from Paris in 1682.   During his reign (1715-1774), his absence from the capital of Paris, the ideas of revolution began to grow.  King Louis th XV resided here as well, but it was during the reign of King Ouis XVI and Marie Antioinette, the atmosphere of hostility towards the crown boiled over into revolution (1774-1792).  

This place is glorious, and the grandeur is almost overwhelming to the senses.  The chapel, the Hall of Mirrors, the Hall of Kings and Queens, and the increidble art were astounding and amazing!  More to com of this grand estate...!!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 9, Coco Chanel and Galleria Lafayette

Founding designer, Coco Chanel, and Karl Lagerfeld, who is the current head designer for the House of Chanel have always been intriguing to me.  The classic, clean lines, feminie colors, and pearls and chains have been a staple of these designers palette for the clothes of Chanel.  In the Galleria Lafayette's main floor I fould a large photo of Karl Lagerfeld hanging in the Chanel handbag display. 

The stain glass ceiling of the Galleria is a rainbow of colorss shining in an open atrium of several stories of balconies overlooking a main floor of makeup boutiques, including that of Lansome Paris.  Lancome Paris, another favorite, after being gifted some Lancome makeup for a friends' wedding many years ago.  This place was a delight to my sense of color and design!  An expected bonus was the amazing view of the Paris skyline from the rooftop deck!  The Paris Opera in close proximity and the Eiffel Tower in the distance made even more spectacular by a brisk April wind and stormy sky!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 8, Designers on Rue Castiglione

Anyone who knows anything about fashion knows that Paris is one of THE centers for fashion in the world!  Growing up, my grandmother sewed all of her own suits, dresses, and blouses using fabrics from purchased in New York City, and pattersn from Vogue.  She and my mother taught me how  to sew when I was 8 years old, and I made my own clothes through college.  My first perfume, a gift from grandmother, was Chanel No. 5!  Seeing all of these desighner names that I was familiar with since childhood, purusing fashion magazines and pattern books was surreal! From Piaget, to Dior, to Chanel, each one of these boutiques was a treasure to behold!  For many years I wore J'adore Dior perfume, and I love this quote of Christian Dior's, "I have designed flower women."  I would say he has designed for those who ARE flower women!

Paris Sketchbook, Post 7, Paris National Opera de Ganier

After visiting the Repetto Ballet Shop, we walked on past the Cafe de la Paix  where those who love opera and ballet gather for after performance socializing, to the amazingly grand Opera National de Paris Garnier!  The architecture is amazing and the interior is opulent, to say the least, and as magical as a fairy tale!  After ascending the grand staircase, we got to take a peak into the auditorium's intircate balconies.  The stage crew was in the midst of a tech rehearsal so the lights were down, but what we could see was increidble!

This is the home of the Paris Opera Ballet and many of the spectacular costumes are on display here in glass cases in the public areas of the opera house.  They were so beautiful and fantastically detailed.  Some of the backstage areas are open for viewing including the libraries of operas, choreiographer and designer's notes.  If you love opera, ballet, architecture, you must see this when you go to Paris!